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Facts and fables: Rediscovering the town centre with Ipswich Tour Guides

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With its cobbled streets and centuries-old buildings, Ipswich is a town steeped in history, yet brimming with modern charm. But how well do we really know it? To answer this question, the team at Ipswich.co.uk went on a guided walk of the town, led by Mike Garland, a long-standing volunteer tour guide.

We started the tour – led by the witty and knowledgeable Mike Garland – outside St Stephen’s, one of 12 medieval churches in the town centre. We are told this area has been lived and worked in since at least 850, possibly earlier, making Ipswich one of the four oldest, continuously occupied towns in England, alongside Southampton, London, and York.

Colchester can thank Boudica’s levelling of their town for their omission on this prestigious list, despite their best promotional efforts, because it hasn’t been continuously inhabited.

St Stephen's Church
St Stephen's ChurchAmy Wragg

Apparently the Saxons wouldn’t have lived in the exposed Roman ruins of Colchester, post-Boudica rampage. Who would’ve known they were so fussy? Mike signposted us to a Saxon poem called ‘The Ruins’ to add further weight to his argument. The poem is actually written about Bath, but it neatly represents the Saxon view, that living in another culture's ruins would be disgraceful, and unappealing. Sorry (not sorry) Colchester. Better get the Tippex out.

Moving onto the Ancient House

Undoubtedly one of the most beautiful buildings in Ipswich, we were met with a challenge from Mike. Would Thomas Wolsey would have seen Ancient House? What do you think? Without giving too much away, the answer led us into a fascinating discussion about architecture, haphazard restoration, and how some questions have more than one answer. Such was the magnetism of this conversation, that we attracted passers-by into the debate, who passionately shared their own understanding of the building's history.

The Ancient House in Ipswich

A significant portion of our time at Ancient House was spent occupied by our well-informed guide debunking several myths about its history, including the ever persistent legend that King Charles II hid on-site during his flight from England.

Never one to state an opinion without backing it up with an impressive amount of evidence from a variety of reputable sources, Mike’s whistle stop tour of this legend was an impressive feat. He even explained how this story – first posited by a Cambridge Professor – came to be so prevalent. To find out more, you'll have to go on one of his tours. But the summary is simple, it can be traced back to the local pub. Why is that not surprising?

Pub culture

In a place like Ipswich, where pub culture has always been part of the fabric of the town, we inevitably ended up discussing the hotly debated topic of the ‘oldest pub in Ipswich’. Much like the oldest town debate, it all hinges on the ‘continuous use’ factor, with The Spread Eagle being the sole contender.

If other pubs are older, and its still a big ‘if’, none of the other pubs in town have retained their public house status for the duration. Many others having being converted into residential use in their lifetimes, even if temporarily.

The Spread Eagle Pub in Ipswich
The Spread EagleAmy WraggAmy Wragg

Cardinal Thomas Wolsey

No tour of Ipswich would be complete without tales of Ipswich's greatest son, Cardinal Thomas Wolsey, so it was appropriate that our last stop of the day was at his statue on St Nicholas Street.

After dealing with what we don’t know about his life—where exactly he was born in Ipswich or where exactly he is buried—Mike moved on to what we do. The inscription at the base summarises Wolsey’s approach to education, saying that he "believed that pleasure should mingle with study so that the child may think learning an amusement." A laudable ethos that seems so far ahead of its time.

Another modern idea that Wolsey championed was fair representation in legal matters, making it possible for the poor to go to court for free. An idea that didn’t endear him to the rich folks of the town.

Amy and Mike posing in front of the Thomas Wolsey statue in Ipswich
Amy and Mike Garland posing in front of the Thomas Wolsey statue in IpswichSophie DebenhamIpswich.co.uk

Finishing up

The whole tour was magnificent, combining historical facts and expertly debunked fables.

In only a short time, we learnt so much. From methods of historical timber construction to the importance of clay to Ipswich and the significant archaeological discovery of the ‘Ipswich Man’ – the remains of a North African man dating back to the 1200s found in Greyfriars.

Even if you know Ipswich well, attending one of these tours will arm you with new information and facts to entertain friends and maybe even charm your pub quiz team into first place.

For more information, visit https://ipswichtourguides.onesuffolk.net/about-us/

Ed Sheeran surprised more than 200 Ipswich students with an impromptu performance at The Baths

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St Stephens Church, The Baths and The Smokehouse in Ipswich

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Brighten the Corners runs a diverse live music programme, training and education opportunities across three venues, and an annual multi-venue festival in Ipswich, Suffolk.

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Are organised crime fronts hiding in plain sight on Ipswich high streets?

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The National Crime Agency's crackdown on high street businesses suspected of links to organised crime has made headlines in Shrewsbury but remains conspicuously absent in Ipswich, despite remarkably similar retail patterns.

A pattern emerging elsewhere

While Ipswich residents have yet to witness raids on local businesses, a stark scene is unfolding elsewhere: officers forcing their way into brightly-coloured barber shops, vape stores, minimarts, candy stores and phone repair shops that have proliferated across town centres.

Last month, the National Crime Agency (NCA) coordinated 265 raids on such premises across England and Wales as part of Operation Machinize, targeting high street businesses suspected of being fronts for international crime gangs – but it remains unclear if Suffolk, or Ipswich, has been part of this operation.

Organised crime and the impact on Ipswich's high street
Oliver Rouane-WilliamsIpswich.co.uk

Shrewsbury and Ipswich: towns with similar profiles

In Shrewsbury, a market town not dissimilar to Ipswich, officers detained two Kurdish asylum seekers during raids on barber shops, seizing thousands of pounds in cash and illicit vapes. The intelligence suggested these establishments were linked to money laundering, illegal immigration and drug dealing.

The parallels between Shrewsbury and Ipswich are difficult to ignore. Both are historic county towns with traditional market squares, and a mix of independent and chain retailers. Both have experienced the same influx of barber shops, vape stores, minimarts, candy stores and phone repair shops on their high street.

Yet while Shrewsbury has seen decisive action, Ipswich residents have yet to witness any comparable enforcement activity. At least not visibly. And if it has, it has yet to make any difference.

The Ipswich landscape

According to commercial property analysts Green Street, the average number of barbers per person in England and Wales has doubled in the past decade.

Walk through Ipswich town centre and the changing retail landscape is evident – multiple barber shops, vape outlets, phone repair shops and sweet shops often within yards of each other, typically with very few visible customers.

It is important to note that we are not suggesting any specific businesses in Ipswich are engaged in illegal activity. The presence of these shops alone does not indicate wrongdoing, and many could be legitimate businesses.

But questions should be asked. And questions are being asked – repeatedly – by residents.

The scale of the problem

The National Crime Agency estimates that £12 billion in illicit cash is laundered in the UK annually, with lots of it flowing through criminal front organisations on high streets.

These businesses appeared to surge as shop vacancies grew following the pandemic, creating opportunities for criminal gangs to establish themselves in plain sight.

The suspicious signs are easy to spot: businesses claiming implausible income levels, unpaid utility bills despite supposed high turnover, and the sale of illicit products like illegal vapes and tobacco.

In Greater Manchester, linked mini-marts were found to be staffed by asylum seekers, some working illegally, with hidden compartments concealing contraband.

What Operation Machinize uncovered

During Operation Machinize, authorities discovered cannabis farms, seized Class A drugs, arrested 35 people and questioned 55 suspected illegal immigrants. Three potential victims of modern slavery were identified. Bank accounts worth over £1 million were frozen and £40,000 in cash seized.

Detective Inspector Daniel Fenn, who led raids in Shrewsbury as part of the operation, said: "Members of the public are angry. They can see these fronts are there. The criminals feel they are hidden here. They think they can come to sleepy areas and won't be found."

The same could easily be said of Ipswich.

The pattern of exploitation is particularly concerning – the NCA believes some shops are used as fronts for drug-trafficking, people-smuggling, modern slavery and child sexual exploitation. In 2023, it secured the conviction of one Iranian Kurdish barber shop owner who was using his London premises as a base for smuggling 10,000 people to the UK in small boats.

Impact on legitimate businesses

Legitimate barbers are calling for a registration scheme and stricter regulation. Gareth Penn, chief executive of the Hair and Barber Council, highlighted how illegal barbers have led to fungal infections from improperly cleaned equipment.

More importantly, though, is the damage being done to genuine businesses that cannot compete with those avoiding costs and taxes, and those that cannot find suitable high street premises.

The damage is significant and potentially long-lasting.

Will Ipswich be next?

For Ipswich, the question now is whether Operation Machinize will visibly extend to Suffolk – or indeed, whether it already has without public knowledge.

Unlike local police forces, the National Crime Agency is exempt from Freedom of Information requests, making it impossible for journalists or the public to determine how many Ipswich businesses, if any, have been investigated.

This distinction is important.

While local police forces handle everyday law enforcement, the NCA was specifically created to tackle serious and organised crime that extends across police force boundaries, international borders, or requires specialist capabilities.

Their involvement signals that these high street businesses are not merely local issues but part of sophisticated criminal networks operating nationally and internationally.

Security Minister Dan Jarvis has stated that "high street crime undermines our security, our borders, and the confidence of our communities", promising "decisive action" to bring those responsible to justice.

The road ahead

There are concerns about the effectiveness of current measures. Of the 265 raids conducted, only 10 shops have been shut down permanently. Many businesses raided were back operating within minutes of officers leaving.

The challenge for authorities extends beyond individual shops to dismantling the organised crime networks behind them – networks that may have been profiting in plain sight for years on our high streets. While local police forces can target individual businesses, only the NCA has the mandate and resources to tackle the international networks behind them.

For Ipswich residents concerned about these issues, the prospect of action against suspicious businesses cannot come soon enough. However, due to the secretive nature of NCA operations, we may never know the full extent of their activities in our town – only their results, if and when they choose to make them public.

Ed Sheeran surprised more than 200 Ipswich students with an impromptu performance at The Baths

Browse upcoming gigs

Check out upcoming BTC events across their three brilliant venues

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